TAS Vietnam Trip

Ha Long Bay – the enduring image of the limestone carsts spread throughout the clear waters of Ha Long bay is something that we as tourists will remember until the day we die. These limestone landforms and caves have an aesthetic value that is driving the tourist influx. The people who live and work in this world heritage area of 1969 limestone carsts rely on the natural resources of fish for survival. We gained a clear insight into the lives of these people yesterday at Ha Long bay as well as being humbled by the sheer natural beauty of the area.

Ha Long Bay has been listed as a UNESCO world heritage site two times, for different reasons each time. In 1991, it was listed for its geological and geomorphological value as an example of the limestone layer that once covered the earth. Later, it was listed for its aesthetic value. The following tourism infrastructure that was built for the visitors to the area has had a profound impact on the geography of the area. New industries have evolved in the place of traditional primary industries. The newfound industry of tourism is at the forefront of this change.

Where once the area was dependent on the fishing industry and the smaller industry of tourism, today this has been completely reversed. The fish industry is now a facet in the tourism industry in the area and there is no doubt that the tourism infrastructure is the jewel in the Ha Long Bay crown. We experienced this infrastructure first hand seeing the hundreds of tourist boats meandering through the humbling limestone pillars. The locals now rely heavily on tourism in their daily lives, people who once made their living from fishing also sell food and drink to tourists from their tiny boats.

Ha Long Bay offered important geographical insight into the way things can change in both the social, economic and historical components of the geographical world. Ha Long Bay showed us striking evidence of the changes that have taken place over the past twenty years due to the recognition by UNESCO. Ha Long Bay was a wonderful way to end the trip and something that all of us will remember for the rest of our lives.

Report by Jarrod Hore and Tom Frankham

Students talked and played games with Vietnamese teenagers when we were lucky enough to be the guests of the recently opened, Vietnam-Australia School (VAS) in Tu Liem district, Hanoi. Students in Vietnam attend school from Monday to Saturday and we spent time with students and staff on Saturday morning. We were treated to cold drinks and platters of local fruit and Jono Carrigan gave an overview of life at TAS.

Students then played table tennis and badminton with their Vietnamese peers and we had a good laugh when the vice-principal, Greg Friend, introduced Jono as the state table tennis champion.
Ms Barnsley and Mr Junge were invited to tour the school while students chatted with one another and played chess. The visit was fantastic as it enabled the Australian boys to experience school life in Hanoi and provided Vietnamese students with an opportunity to practise their English language skills.

VAS was opened in August this year in partnership with PLC Sydney and PLC Armidale. The school’s conception was very interesting as it was set up using capital provided by a former PLC Sydney parent so that local students could access high-quality educational facilities and curriculum in Vietnam. The high cost of accessing education overseas places it beyond the economic means of most Vietnamese families, so the school is playing an important role in providing more educational opportunities.
Students study 11 subjects as part of the Vietnamese curriculum as well as two subjects in English, Global English and Global Commerce. The curriculum provides students with a UAI so that they are able to apply to a range of Western universities. The newly-built school is currently housed in what will be the primary and boarding school buildings, as they await the construction of a large new campus and sporting fields.
We would like to thank the Principal, Mr Nguyen Phu Chien, vice-principal Mr Greg Friend, VAS teachers and students and Mrs Leonie Brewer from PLC Sydney for allowing us an insight into how education operates in Vietnam. We look forward to building on this friendship in the future and extended an invitation for staff and students to visit us in Armidale in the future.

Hanoi is a thriving metropolis, located in northern Vietnam. The city of Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam. It also once was the capital of French Indochina as well as Vietnam’s monarchy for over a thousand years. The French influence has made the city have a slightly European feel to it, though it is distinctly an Asian city its leafy trees and beautiful French architecture tell a tale of a bygone era. The French introduced a grid system as well as widened the roads, thus creating the magnificent leafy boulevards of today.

The building have been immaculately restored to their once glorious, colonial condition. The government has introduced a system where potential international organisations hoping to invest in Vietnam must restore a building to its original condition, this is seen with the restoration of the Opera House by the Hilton Hotel chain company. The French Governor of Indochina’s mansion is one of the best examples of French architecture of Vietnam. The building itself has been built on the grandest of scales, with it charming gardens and beautifully restored buildings you can imagine high tea on the lawn in colonial times.

The city of Hanoi is built in quarters such as the Old Quarter and the French Quarter. The French Quarter is located in the centre of the city and it has the best examples of colonial architecture. The Old Quarter has narrow lanes and is a sea of people trying to sell tourists anything. Unlike the Old Quarter, the French Quarter is a lot quieter and cooler because of its breezy boulevards and shady trees.

Report by Ed Hoddle

We began our trip to Hanoi with a very early 5.30 am kick off to meet our 8.30 flight to Hanoi. Our last goodbyes were said to the much-loved city of Hue (Pronounced Way). After an hour’s flight we landed in Vietnam’s largest northern city of Hanoi. We were welcomed with the rainy weather and local tourist guide Long, who was more than happy to shed light on the City of Hanoi on the 45min drive from the Airport to the Golden Key Hotel, which was located nearby the inner city.

Lunch at KOTO

After a short break, we were back on the streets of Hanoi for lunch at the Koto Café. The boys enjoyed a western-style lunch of baguettes and lime juice, which became a favourite beverage in the scorching heat.
There is a special story behind KOTO, which stands for Know One Teach One. Australian man, Mr Jimmy Pham set up the café in 2000. It is a not-for-profit restaurant and vocational training program for street children and disadvantaged youth of Hanoi. Mr Pham’s inspirational story has been aired on ABC TV’s Australian Story. His mother comes from the north of Vietnam and his father is Korean. In 1974, they had fled Saigon, where Jimmy’s father had been working as an architect, for Singapore, before moving onto Saudi Arabia and finally to Sydney. Mr Pham came up with the idea after he was touched by the flight of street children in Hanoi. He borrowed money from his family and established the café, which is now a registered charity in Australia. You can find out more about is amazing place at www.streetvoices.com.au
The café is renowned for its excellent food and has helped many children to go on to find employment in Hanoi and Saigon’s top restaurants and hotels. It has recently moved to new premises can be found near one of Hanoi’s most visited locations, the Temple of Literature at 61 Van Mieu.

“The greatest accomplishment for the person who has helped you, is to see you stand on your own two feet and then in turn help someone else that reminds you of yourself, because if you Know One, then you should Teach One.”
Mr Jimmy Pham, KOTO Founder and Director

Temple of Literature

After lunch we went across the road to the site of Vietnam’s first and oldest university, the Temple of Literature. Our guide explained to us the Confucian principles on which Vietnamese government and education was based and the temple was adorned with turtles, each with details of the mandarin’s achievements, the equivalent to degrees or PhDs today.

Cyclo Tour of Hanoi’s French and Old quarters

After the Temple of Literature, we were greeted warmly by local Vietnamese “cyclo” drivers who rode us around the great city of Hanoi. We saw many amazing sights on the cyclo tour, including the statue of the Russian communist, Lenin and the French styled Opera House, which is located in the French Quarter.

We also travelled through the ancient Old Quarter with 36 streets named after the product that was traditionally sold there. These narrow and cramped streets have an atmosphere and smell that is unique and is a step back in time. After the cyclo ride, we went back to the hotel for a quick break before we took off again for dinner at a local restaurant.

Report by Alex McDonald and Aaron Schroder

Hanoi Water Puppet Theatre

The Water Puppet Show (known as mua roi nuoc) is touted as a unique, must-see attraction of Hanoi. Shows are held at the state-run Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre in the city’s Old Quarter.

The art of water puppetry dates back to the Ly dynasty (1010-1225) and the show provides modern audiences an insight into Vietnamese rural life and mythology. The male and female puppeteers stand waist-deep in the water, which hides the puppeteers and strings of the puppets and also to creates a reflective stage. The puppets are made of wood and painted with water-proof lacquer and the show depicts stories of Vietnamese folk tales and daily life. This entertaining performance also comes with special effects such as smoke and mini-fireworks, plus traditional music and singing and at 10,000 VND (75 cents) it was certainly worth seeing.

Today we travelled from Hoi An to the former imperial capital, Hue. The coastal foothills are one of the most beautiful and scenic parts of Vietnam.

We stoppped at Marble Mountain where we witnessed marble figurines in all colours, shapes and sizes. The marble occurs in five large outcrops. Local tradespeople sculpt and sell everything imaginable.

There are scattered remnants of many wars along this strategic pass. The area is dotted with bunkers and pill boxes dating from the First Indochinese War and the Vietnam War. These physical remnants are indicative of how difficult it has been for Vietnam to gain their independence. Many have tried to grasp the independence from Vietnamise hands but all have failed… This again shows me how resilient the Vietnamese people are.

The road north to Hue is called the Hai Van pass, which means the pass of Heavenly Clouds. It has spectacularly picturesque views, clear air and the fishing boats littered along the outstreched coast make this part of trip a standout. It is remarkable to see this countryside in all it majesty – it is a humble and fullfilling experience to say the least.

Report by Sam Coulton

My Lai was a shocking awakening to the brutality of war. We experienced how destructive the Vietnam-American war was in every aspect. My Lai was the site of a massacre of 504 innocent civilians by American GIs on March 16, 1968. The GIs raided villages, slaughtered women and children execution-style in ditches and under trees and then burned their huts.

The majority of the troops carried out their orders without question but some men refused to take part in the bloodshed. One example of a personal protest was Herbert Carter. This soldier shot himself in the foot so that he would not have to take part. The US army attempted to cover up the event but after 18 months the details of the massacre were eventually uncovered when a soldier who was not present but heard about the massacre leaked it to the press.

The assault was conducted under Sgt William Calley of the US Army (commander of Charlie company, 1^st battalion, 20^th regiment). Only Calley faced trial for the crimes committed as the other soldiers got off on technicalities. Once the massacre was uncovered, he was required to attend an international war-crimes tribunal where he was sentenced to 20 years in jail. However, this was shortened to two years of house arrest and he was eventually pardoned by Richard Nixon.

Our guide gave us some insight into the reasons that the massacre occurred. These included the fact that the Company involved was young and inexperienced. They had been sent to one of the worst areas for heavy fighting, known as the Badlands. Many had only been in Vietnam for three months and were 18 to 19 years old. They were thrown into a disorganised, dysfunctional unit, which had experienced 75 per cent casualty rates. Calley was an incompetent leader who was not trusted by his men. He was ruthless in his actions at My Lai, possibly to prove himself to be an effective leader.This combined with the absence of an experienced, well trained officer contributed to the pushing them over the edge on that fateful day.

Today, the younger of the Vietnamese people have forgiven America for their war crimes, however, hatred and anger still exists and the events are still sharp in the minds and hearts of the older generation who saw the destruction of their once quiet village. Many people, American veterans and civilians included, make the pilgrimage to My Lai to pay their respects to the victims of the massacre by burning incense at the foot of the monument.

Charlie Company’s photographer Michael Haeberle captured the entire terrifying massacre at My Lai. He took photos of the corpses and the brutal aftermath of the attack. It was also revealed how the US bombed the site with B52 bombers to eliminate any evidence of the villages. They then bulldozed the entire area. These photos were vital in understanding what happened at My Lai, as they are primary sources. They are vital to historians analyzing the massacre at My Lai and became significant as they were used as evidence in the court martial of Calley.

The My Lai massacre exposed the group to a real life situation of brutal warfare. We saw images that were real and confronting showing how horrible war really was. We were deeply impacted by the suffering of the local Vietnamese people and at the same time sickened by the disturbing actions of the American soldiers.

Report by Henry Treloar and Brent Trenerry

SAIGON FAST FACTS

* Home to 10 million people

* Renamed Ho Chi Minh City in 1975

* The economic centre of Vietnam, this city is booming and attracts most foreign investment in the country

* Used to be part of Cambodia until late 17th century – was the seat of the vice-king of Cambodia

On the third day of our Vietnam tour we ventured onto the War Remnants Museum, and we passed many fascinating and famous sights along the way. Saigon is full of many interesting old buildings, most built of French influence and the city is constructed into numerous different districts. Inside district one, we were able to witness such familiar tourist attractions such as the Post Office, the Presidential Palace and a large catholic cathedral, Notre Dame, which was modelled on a cathedral in Toulouse.

Post Office

The first tourist location we came across was the historic Saigon post office. This building was erected in the 1870s by the French and featured several artifacts that we founds very interesting such as the two large scale maps printed onto both sides of the Post Office’s wall.

The first was of the city of Saigon with the French telegram lines which were used in the defeat of the French, the other was a map of Indochina under French rule.Designed by the Eiffel company, the Post Office was suited to the tropical climate as the roof system allowed the building to stay cool. The French created a concave roof which would hold the warm air in the top of the building keeping the majority cool. A large painting of Ho Chi Minh now looks over the large long hall of this post office and images of this building can be seen below.

War Remnants Museum

On September the 4th 1975, a museum was erected as a memorial to the Vietnam War. The museum featured many gruesome but interesting pictures from the war, a large scale model of the prisons, and many examples of war machinery, equipment and artillery.

The photographic and written sources presented the war from a Vietnamese perspective. The perspective presented the US and allied forces as extremely cruel and in some circumstances inhumane. This was particulary so with the prison section, with a model of the so-called “tiger cage”. This contraption was mostly used by the South Vietnamese army against captured VC or NVA soldiers. Within the prison we saw many torture techniques that could only be discribed as completely and utterly inhumane. What also was on display at the museum was a large section that displayed much war propaganda coming from both perspectives. These primary sources were extremely effective as propaganda and gave the impression that they had a significant effects on the outcome of the war.

Another moving exhibition was of photographs taken by war photojournalists who had been killed during the war. The photograph below was taken by Larry Burrows, who died when the helicopter he was flying in crashed in Laos in 1971.

Markets

There are only a few ways to descibe the markets of Saigon. They extremely cheap and gave us an up close look at how trade is conducted in the city.
The markets were tight and sweaty and the smell is unforgettable. You need bargaining and bartering skills in here as bargaining is a way of life for Vietnamese people. Paying full price is considered crazy. The locals rely on the markets to survive and they attract large prorportions of tourists. The same product is sold throughout the market place and it is an experience that we will never forget.
The smells the sights and even the “extreme pedestrian crossing”, as Mr Junge calls it, were all the aspects that combined together to create one of the best experiences of the trip. The market place cannot be descibed in any other way then the statments above. Nothing in Austrialia can be compared to the audacity of the market place.

The Continental

We finished up by having afternoon tea at Saigon’s most famous hotel, the Continental, which is the setting of Graham Greene’s The Quiet American. This gave us an insight into the Saigon of late 19th century, during the heydey of France’s colonial empire. It was a cool respite from the hectic and heady streets of Ho Chi Minh City.

Report by Jono Carrigan and Alec Pengilley

First stop Singapore

Bus trip to Cu Chi Tunnels
Today we went to the Cu Chi tunnels, which are located approximately 70 km nothwest of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). These tunnels comprise of various networks used during the Vietnam War. It is interesting that the Vietnamese call this conflict the “American War”. These tunnels were used for transport, fighting, hiding, living and observing the enemy. There were kitchens, storage rooms, theatres, sleeping rooms and chimney systems to diffuse the smoke to keep the position of the tunnels hidden. The reason for the tunnels was simple: The Viet Cong (V.C) could not withstand the onslaught of the U.S artillery so they had to go underground to help combat this strength of the U.S army. The V.C developed a various array of strategies to attack the U.S soldiers and were especially active at night. Some of these included booby traps such as bamboo pits, mines, bear traps and observation holes to scout the enemy and pass on enemy activity, such as the size and location of the main fighting force so that they could set up an ambush. These ambushes were extremely effective.

To me, the tunnel system really emphasised the point that the V.C were resilient and had a high degree of ingenuity. They used everything to their advantage. They used the rubber from U.S tyres, gunpowder from undetonated U.S bombs and made use of everything that was available to them. They used cheap, simple yet effective methods.
The most fascinating aspect for us as a group was getting an understanding of what is was like for the V.C while they were in the tunnels. The tunnels were dark, hot, small and dirty and that was after they had been widened and cleaned for tourism. Also, the tools used to carve out over 400km of underground tunnels were rusty little shovels and a woven grass scoop.

The tunnels were located near rubber plantations. Our guide revealed that the reason for this was because the French owned the rubber plantations and the U.S. could not bomb French interests in Vietnam otherwise they would have to compensate the French landowners. The V.C. used this to their advantage and also linked the region’s numerous villages via the intricate system.

The U.S. Base, which was located on top of the tunnel system, was erected to house 20,000 troops and to support the South Vietnamese efforts to wipe out the V.C. opposition. Interestingly, the V.C. came up from the tunnels at night and shot the U.S soldiers and construction workers. It took a year to establish a safe perimeter around the base. The US strategy, called the Strategic Hamlet project, involved moving the villages that were linked by the tunnels. This lost the U.S. vital support from the South Vitetnamese peasantry.

When we went into the tunnels, it made us feel sombre that people had died there. It was also exciting because it made it feel real. A wrecked tank with bullet holes brought to life a newfound understanding and frustration towards war. It was a great experience to see the Cu Chi tunnels up close and personal and the rain and dense jungle gave us a sense of empathy towards both sides, which fought each other almost 40 years ago.
By Sam Coulton and Cameron Britten

Ed and Jarrod

Local guide Mr Wei explained how the networks of tunnels were used in the wars against the French and US

The first day wrapped up with dinner at a Vietnamese restaurant

CU CHI TUNNELS FAST FACTS

* in Cu Chi alone 260km of underground tunnels forming part of a 400k netwok from Parrot’s Beak in Cambodia to Saigon. These were predominantly transport networks for troops, VC and NVA to funnel troops into the heart of the South Vietnamese republic i.e. the attack of TET 1968 a lot of supporting troops came from those strategically vital networks

* 1 in 3 local combattants survived, over 40,000 died in the area during the struggle against the French and Americans

* 2 huge US operations, Operation Settlewood and Rolling Thunder tried to clear the area of VC to no effect.

*The nearby American base housed 20,000 troops from the 25th Tropical Lightning Division, who had trained in an Asain counter warfare techniques to resist torture but weren’t trained in tunnel warfare. Most of the labour, washing etc, was done by Vietnamese, which compromised security. One example is of Americans getting their hair cut at the base later on they went out on patrol and came under fire from a sniper which turned out to be the 13-year-old daughter of the barber. Subsequent investigations revealed that all 14 barbers in the camp were VC. The element of suprise in American attacks was generally missing because the VC were able to infiltrate the camp as workers.

Interestingly, at the Australian camp, Nui Dat, there were no Vietnamese workers allowed on the base.

* Even though they secured to camp the Vietnamese kept building tunnels up to the perimeter and kept mortaring the camp to maintain constant pressure on the US troops.